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Bring on the butterflies: Hope, change and Mayan dreams

Bring on the butterflies: Hope, change and Mayan dreams

The last golden rays of 2011 slipped away gloriously yesterday, lingering across the chalky face of the Pinnacles, an ancient towering limestone formation in the north of Boone County, Missouri – one of the places on this planet I will always call home.

The unseasonable warmth had us removing layers as we scrambled up to catch a glimpse of the world from on high. Another climatic oddity in a year that was full of them. Change is in the air, for those with eyes to see: We are closing the book on a year that saw vast swaths of the American Southwest go up in smoke, millions of dollars of hurricane damage in Vermont, a monster tornado that erased big chunks of Joplin, massive flooding in Australia, the Phillippines and Southeast Asia and record-breaking heat waves in Europe and much of the United States.

My mother’s garden in the Missouri countryside was cooked before it could be harvested. Where I live, in Mexico, widespread crop failure due to extended drought pushed more subsistence farmers to leave the land for the traffic-choked cities or for a desperate, life-threatening dash for El Norte, the forbidden promise of employment across the northern border. But today, on this balmy December day, global warming seems a welcome respite from the bone-chilling cold that usually accompanies us at this time of year. So I won’t complain.

Much has been written about this turning of the ages; and no place on Earth is more fascinated with the Mayan prophecies than Mexico, birthplace of the Mayan calendar that ends this year. To me, it’s impossible not to link this prophecy with the profound changes we are facing as a civilization. I’m not speaking of Armageddon – rather, a time of reckoning as we end a cycle of industrial excess. The Mayan people I have spoken with are laughing at the notion that the end of the calendar means the end of the world. It’s simply the end of a cycle, and the beginning of a new one, they reassure anyone who asks. But in more serious conversations, they shared with me their hope, as fervent as my own, that a long-awaited shift is pending, and in fact has already begun.

“After five centuries of oppression, we’re ready for a change,” Rony, a Mayan permaculturist friend from Lake Atitlan, Guatemala, told me. “It’s the only hope we have.”

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Vision Council: Call of the Deer ushers in a new era

Vision Council: Call of the Deer ushers in a new era

Somos un circulo
Dentro de un circulo
Sin principio y sin final…

We are a circle
Within a circle
Without beginning or end.

By Tracy L. Barnett
The Esperanza Project

TEMICTLA, Mexico State, Mexico – It began with a rainbow and ended with a spiral that represented life itself. The eleventh Vision Council, Call of the Deer, was spun from poetry and passion, woven with sweat and fire, and colored with laughter and tears.

Dreamers and doers from every generation and every walk of life gathered under the shelter of a gigantic blue-and-white circus tent in the sacred valley of Temictla Oct. 7-13 for the sporadically recurring event, which is simultaneously an experiment in human cohabitation, a marathon dedicated to social and personal transformation, and a celebration of life.

As is often the case in the Southern latitudes, I arrived a little late but at the perfect time. I registered at the front table and entered the gathering grounds apprehensively, not knowing exactly what to expect. An ecotopian community was once again arising with before me, sheltered under the towering white cliffs on all sides that would serve as our sentinels for the week ahead. I found my tent and got situated, clambering out to close the flap in a short cloudburst, just in time to see a rainbow arching over the camp and the stark white cliffs; a cheer arose throughout the valley, and I smiled. It was a good omen – and I was home at last.

Last year I had the good fortune to attend the life-changing Vision Council gathering The Call of the Eagle, and I felt myself inspired and embraced among a long-lost family seeking to manifest a new and more sustainable, egalitarian world. The theme this year, Call of the Deer, referred to the threatened Wirikuta, one of Mexico’s most sacred sites, home of the Deer Spirit that has guided the native Wixarika people, among others, for thousands of years.

On this auspicious week of 11/11/11, there would be a “New Fire” ceremony to usher in a New Age. And in addition to its usual lineup of educational workshops and activities organized by eight different councils ranging from ecology and health to spirituality and beyond, the group sponsored two main outreach initiatives: support of the Wirikuta Defense Front, with all proceeds to support its work in protecting the site from transnational mining and agroindustrial businesses; and also for the neighboring community of Chalmita with three days of educational workshops and activities in the primary and secondary schools and in the town square.

“We’re going beyond words, to specific proposals and actions – how are we going to live this new society that is being generated?” said Veronica Sacta Campos, coordinator of the Council on Spirituality. “It’s easy to say that things don’t work or that everything is bad – but to what point are we doing something to generate change – from our own habits to the organization of society itself?”

My first night I passed with Abuela Alas de Aguila, Grandmother Eagle Wings, at 60-something still one of the most beautiful women in the Consejo.

She was the guardian of the fire in the Women’s Teepee, a space dedicated to nurturing the Divine Feminine in each of us, and her brilliant smile endured the weeklong marathon with great stamina and grace.

In the days ahead I joined the circle of traditional elders at the ceremonial fire to learn about the Aztec history of this region, where Cuauhtémoc and his warriors fought the Spanish invaders with enormous courage and passion.


I peeked into the women’s teepee to find it filled with peacefully reclining bodies, Veronica at the center, talking each of them through their own personal rebirthing journey.

I followed the path to the eco-house of Lourdes and Guy, under construction just down the road, where a demonstration of ecological building techniques was underway.



I joined a delegation of Consejo leaders in a trip to Chalmita to visit with community leaders and watched as young Krishna and Valentina rallied the shy and resistant village children and youth into a rousing and heartwarming encounter circle in a creative physical expression workshop.


“The important thing is to open the eyes and the mind to other opportunities of how to live and how to create wellbeing,” said Helen Samuels, Consejo cofounder.

Laura Kuri, founder of Mexico’s flowering bioregional movement, has worked with Beatrice Padilla, Beatrice Briggs and others to build a strategy to protect the regional ecosystem, a “Bosque de Agua” or “water forest” whose three fragile watersheds provide the water for more than 30 million people.

“In very few meters we have a great diversity of ecosystems that talk about a great richness of species of plants and animals and cultures,” she said. “In fact we’re in one of the richest regions of the planet.”

The Wirikuta Defense Front made a passionate call to the Consejo to support the efforts to save this endangered desert habitat, a space of mystical encounter with the precolonial Divine, and activities throughout the Consejo were dedicated to the preservation of Wirikuta, with a variety of activities to follow, including establishment of an ongoing permaculture project in the region.

We learned more about Natural Time, a movement led by the late Jose Arguelles, a dear friend of many Consejo members, in the context of the dawning of a New Age. His followers and many others believe this transition has already begun with the coming of 2012 and the ending of a cycle in the Mayan calendar.

“These days there’s been a lot of talk about the transition to a New Age, the coming of 2012, understanding that the Earth has its cycles and we are passing through and manifesting the prophesies of various peoples around the world,” said Veronica. “We are at the point now where we are passing through the night, and are at the point of leaving the darkness and passing into the new dawn of humanity. It’s a moment to take advantage of to return to our connection to the Earth.”

Themes of respect for indigenous cultures, the Earth and a culture of peace resonated through the valley in a megaconcert with big-name Mexican and Latin artists like Ruben Albarran from Café Tacuba together with the Andean group Hoppo; the smooth reggae tones of Lengua Alerta; the system-challenging hiphop of Pachamama Crew and the Wixarika group Venado Azul, to name just a few among the abundant lineup.

Topping off a day and night of culture was the long-awaited movie premiere of Hecho en Mexico (Made in Mexico), a brilliant and heart-filled documentary by British filmmaker Duncan Bridgeman that included interviews and cameos by Consejo members as well as scenes shot in the Consejo itself.

On the coming of the dawn of 11/11/11, I joined a quietly gathering group around the fire in a New Fire ceremony. The cliffs echoed with the haunting tones of crystal bowls, arising along with the smoke of the old fire and the pungent scent of copal from the censers. Armando invited me to play one of the bowls and my spirit rose with the harmonic hum as I joined the players at the center. A young couple joined at the center to light the new fire, symbolizing the coming of the New Age.



“This action in this place is not isolated,” said Alberto Ruz, one of the founders of the Consejo of the 11/11/11 ceremony. “It forms part of an archipelago of hundreds of points of light that on this same day at this same hour are taking place in some part of the world.”

The Consejo was filled with personal highs and lows for each of us – such as the night when Blue Thunder, a Shoshone shaman from the north, called the rain in a powerful ceremony at the nearby sacred spring, and 250 campers were inundated in a wild thunderstorm.

But everything came together at the closing ceremony that began with a human spiral flowing through the valley, then a circle with our musicians performing at the center, then a dance of universal peace.

“Really it’s a social experiment that we do here,” said Laura Kuri, “to be able to come here and learn the ecotecnicas, the organic food, the composting toilets, the rituals, the heating of water with compost – it’s like an experiment that changes you. The people who come to the Consejo return to their homes and something happens and there’s a change. It’s very hopeful.”

Images from a moment in time that will live on for years to come….


Created with Admarket’s flickrSLiDR.

Mexico City to Huicholes: “You are not alone”

Mexico City to Huicholes: “You are not alone”

By Tracy L. Barnett
for The Esperanza Project

MEXICO CITY – Led by a vanguard of more than 250 Wixarika elders, women, men and children in their colorful traditional dress, a colorful river of marchers filled the grand Reforma Avenue of Mexico City for four hours yesterday, ending at the residence of President Felipe Calderón.

“You are not alone! You are not alone!” chanted the marchers, some of whom had formed a protective human chain encircling the indigenous representatives as they prepared to deliver their petition to the nation’s highest authority: Save Wirikuta, the Sacred Heart of Mexico.

It was the culmination of two days of events designed to draw attention to mining and agroindustrial projects that threaten the cultural survival of one of the world’s best-preserved living pre-Hispanic cultures: the Wixarika people, better known by the Spanish name of Huicholes. Two massive mining projects have been proposed for the Wixarika’s most sacred site, and a plague of industrial tomato growers have razed thousands of hectares of fragile desert habitat in the UNESCO-recognized, state-protected Wirikuta Ecological and Cultural Reserve.

Traditional authorities from each of the eight communities represented by the march were allowed to enter the presidential complex, heavily guarded by federal police in riot gear, in order to present a letter to authorities. It was the third such letter asking Calderon to rescind the 22 concessions granted to the Canadian transnational First Majestic Silver Corp. Until now, there has been no response. The hope was that with so many eyes upon the delegation’s demands, this time would be different. Presidential representatives promised an answer within a week.

Felipe! entiende! Wirikuta no se vende – (Felipe [Calderon], Understand! Wirikuta is not for sale),” chanted the crowd as they approached the Mexican counterpart to the White House. Plumes of smoke rose into the air from the copal burning in ceremonial censors along with chants of “Wirikuta no se vende! Se ama y se defiende! (Wirikuta is not to sell; it is to love and defend).”



Participants made their way to the front of the crowd to affix their colorful Huichol Eyes of God to the gates of the presidential complex, as feather-headdressed Aztec dancers beat a rhythm to the chants with their drums and ayoyotes, and members of the Triqui tribes, Red Road and other indigenous groups and dozens of environmental and human rights groups joined the throng with banners. The marchers made it clear that the site is sacred not only to the Wixarika but to other indigenous groups and to thousands of non-indigenous Mexicans and internationals who believe the Mountains of Catorce and the desert at their feet is one of the most important spiritual centers in the world.

Events began on Wednesday with a press conference in which intellectuals, artists and other leaders in the civil society expressed their support for the mobilization and the Wixarika delegation. Actor Daniel Giménez Cacho thanked the delgates, saying “they are teaching us to defend our house and what is ours.” In previous days, Giménez Cacho was one of dozens of Mexican actors and film personalities who signed a letter in support of the mobilization, including Gael Garcia Bernal. Top musical stars like Manu Chao and Aterciopelados have promised support, and last week, Ruben Albarran of Café Tacuba, Roco and Moyenei from Sonidero Meztizo and other artists held a press conference for Wirikuta. Roco and Moyenei accompanied the entire processon on a double-decker bus-turned-sound system, alternately broadcasting music and calls of encouragement to the crowd; at one point a pair of traditional Wixarika fiddlers played their haunting music to cheers from the crowd. The entire event culminated in a high-energy concert at the Museum of Anthropology, led by Roco and Moyenei.

The delegation was received at the National Autonomous University of Mexico and the National School of Anthropology and History with open arms, food and one of two concerts sponsored by Sonidero Meztizo.

After the press conference, the multihued band loaded onto buses for a pilgrimage to the Basilica and to the Hill of Tepeyac, where the indigenous Juan Diego is believed to have seen the Virgin of Guadalupe. Perhaps more importantly to the Wixarika, it’s the ancestral temple site for Tonantzin, the powerful pre-Hispanic Earth goddess.

Another part of the delegation went to meet with officials at SEMARNAT, the federal environmental agency, to outline their concerns. And yet another group went off to do interviews with the national media.

But the spiritual high point of the two-day affair came on Thursday morning, when the Wixarika streamed into the park containing the Pyramid of Cuicuilco, the first important civic-religious center of the Mexican Highlands and a sacred site for the Wixarika. They made their way through the park to the foot of the pyramid, where there is a simple altar where the Huichol people leave their offerings. There at the foot of the pyramid, traditional musicians began to play their fiddles, and one by one, the marakames blessed each of the participants with their feathered muwiere. Time seemed to stand still as each person filed in to take their turn in front of the tiny house constructed to shelter their offerings.

“Today we lighted the candles of life and left our offerings for all life on Earth,” explained Wixarika traditional leader Santos de la Cruz in a reception at the neighboring School of Anthropology and History, the same site that welcomed the Zapatistas in their many sojourns from Chiapas more than a decade ago. “We pray not only for the protection of our heart, our veins, our life, which is Wirikuta, but for the other sacred sites in the world which are threatened, and this threat menaces all of life on the planet.”

For more information about the campaign to save Wirikuta, see www.frenteendefensadewirikuta.org.

Images from the October 26-27 mobilization Save Wirikuta: The Sacred Heart of Mexcio:


Created with Admarket’s flickrSLiDR.

Organic Nicaragua: On the road with Común Tierra

Organic Nicaragua: On the road with Común Tierra

By Ryan Luckey and Leticia Rigatti
Común Tierra

We entered Costa Rica about two weeks ago and have kept busy with various activities including many seed exchanges, events and visits to various projects. But all that will come in the next post …

This post is to share a little from the month we spent in Nicaragua, where we found really nice people and visited some interesting projects.

Nicaragua is a beautiful country with extensive coastline on both the Pacific and the Caribbean, many lakes and volcanoes. It’s a country that historically faced a strong dictatorship and had to fight a brutal civil war to end the dictatorship through the revolutionary Sandinista movement. Over the years the country has tried to recover, but poverty remains widespread, and Nicaragua today is the second poorest country in the continent, surpassed only by Haiti.


Even with a grave economic situation and violent history, we found Nicaragua’s population really open and friendly, with clear and strong political opinions and self-esteem. This year is an election year, and we saw many young people marching through the streets and holding political events and demonstrations. Lots of energy in the country …

We found this political rally in Nandaime, Nicaragua

During our visit, we visited three sustainability projects. Two on Ometepe Island, an island formed by two volcanoes in the middle of stunning Lake Nicaragua, the largest tropical lake in the world.

Ometepe

Panoramic view of the Island

On Omatepe we visited the Project Inan Itah, a spiritual development center with various permaculture practices and a volunteer program. While visiting for a few days we actively participated in community activities and became great friends in this beautiful project.

Another interesting project is the ecological hostel El Zopilote, which was designed using permaculture principles. The hostel’s natural buildings and organic food production make for a cool food-forest jungle experience, and is a center for backpackers to a have a relaxed and more conscious visit to the island.

During our visit to El Zopilote we had an exciting moment with their bees. On the farm they have a cross between Italian bees (very quiet, friendly) and African bees (aggressive, hardy). That is, the bees are warriors, but not brutal. We were talking to Danielle who takes care of the bees, real close to the boxes, taking pictures and talking… and suddenly we realized that the bees started flying at us! There were so many! And then someone says RUUUUUUUN!! And we run down the ravine, up the hill, around the bend, and away…. It was crazy to have that ringing in the ears, unable to look back and have to keep running! Ryan got bitten twice including once on his lip, and Danielle about 8 times. In the end we learned that we can not abuse the bees patience and we should better respect the space of our dear friends the bees who make such rich food for us, and yet struggle to survive in the jungle.


The bees, calm, as we began to observe…


Here the bees are started to get agitated…

We also participated in a community event in the town of Santa Cruz on Omatepe, where we played music and shared a little about Común Tierra…

The organizers offered some free organic seeds for the local people, and some resources on how to grow organically, natural medicine, etc…

On Nicaragua’s Pacific coast we visited Finca Las Nubes, a place where residents are trying to build a totally self-suffcient ranch and community, using various integrated practices, with the hopes of leaving a legacy for future generations.

For more photos, visit our Facebook album.

For now we say goodbye as we head out to organize our seeds… we will be trading and offering seeds tomorrow in the Feria Verde (organic market) in San Jose, capital city of Costa Rica.

A BIG HUG and we hope to see you soon!

Leti and Ryan

Losing mangrove forests in El Salvador to climate change

Losing mangrove forests in El Salvador to climate change

by Ryan Luckey
Comuntierra

This article was originally published by Al-Jazeera and can be accessed HERE.

With disastrous volcanic eruptions, earthquakes, and extreme storms, El Salvador is widely regarded as one of the world’s most vulnerable countries to natural disasters. With the impacts of climate change complicating social and economic crises, the El Salvadorian government has recognized that national security considerations must include discussion of environmental factors, leading to the Minister of the Environment Herman Chavez to proclaim Climate Change as ‘our number 1 priority’ in February 2011. However, as Salvadorians well know, when it comes to natural disasters, some things are simply out of their control. The demise of the countries Mangrove Forests is one of these cases.

El Salvador’s Pacific Mangrove forest, the largest of its kind in Central America, covers over 20,000 hectares in and around the Jiquilisco Bay. Mangroves are traditionally considered to be a natural protection from extreme flooding and rising tides, acting as an invaluable buffer zone during extreme weather events.
Several years ago, however, local communities began noticing a strange phenomenon; the Mangroves at the edge of the ocean were dying.

A Threatened Ecosystem

The Mangrove forest is a unique ecosystem found in tropical and sub-tropical coastal regions in the Americas, Middle East, Asia and Oceania. Characterized by the mixing of fresh water and salt water, the Mangrove creates specific conditions that support a wide variety of flora and fauna.

The trees have a series of stilt-like supports that extend from the trunk for increased stability and resilience. The Mangrove trees have evolved to be able to withstand change in water level caused by normally occurring tidal cycles and mild flooding, helping protect coastal areas from damage from extreme storms and tsunamis. In
recent years, however, a rise in sea level has brought the ocean waves intruding further inland than ever before, wreaking havoc on the trees and the entire ecosystem.

According to Dr. Ricardo Navarro, director of the Center for Appropriate Technologies in El Salvador (CESTA), over 30 meters of Mangrove forest has been completely destroyed by this phenomenon in the last 6 years. “With the increase in global sea level, the ocean waves are entering further and further into the Mangroves. What happens is the waves wash away the soil nutrients, leaving the trees in pure sand. So the trees die, and then all of the animals leave the area.”

All along the central coast of El Salvador there is a dead zone stretching along the beach, measuring between 10 and 50 meters. The cause? Climate Change, says Dr. Navarro.

The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change reported that global sea level rose 21 centimeters in the last century. This rise is reportedly caused by a combination of glacial melting, melting of the polar caps, and the physical expansion of the oceans with a rise in water temperature, all claimed to be consequences from global warming caused by human activity.

When asked how far the tide has come in, local fisherman Adan Nahun Diaz Ramirez pointed out into the sea, past the breaking waves. “The forest extended past all of this, you can see,” he said, pointing to Mangrove stumps underneath the crashing waves. “Actually, beyond the Mangroves, there was a layer of other trees on the beach.”

With no soil structure and no life left, the newly exposed land has no protection from the ocean, which over time is encroaching further inland. Locals estimate that at least 50 meters of land has been lost to the ocean in the last ten years.

Effects on Local Communities

La Tirana is a small village of 23 families at the edge of the Mangrove. The village was populated through most of the 20th century, but abandoned during El Salvador’s civil war, when most rural areas of the country were abandoned. The town came back to life 10 years ago, when new residents moved in.

CESTA has been working in La Tirana since 2005 to develop a program called “Sustainable Ways of Life.” The program has provided the community an environmental education program, technical assistance for organic agriculture, installed water wells, and several solar panels to bring electricity to the village for the first time. The program also facilitated the creation of a vision for the villages’ ecological and economic sustainability.

“Now we have a plan for sustainable harvesting of the Punche, which limits our harvest to 5-7 dozen per day,” Ramirez told me. “But there are days when we can’t even find 1 dozen.”

Like many other rural communities, harvesting the ‘Punche,’ a local species of Mangrove Crab, is the only source of income. “The Earth here is not easy to cultivate, because its just sand, so we depend on the Mangrove,” Ramirez said. “In the last few years, it’s been increasingly difficult to hunt the Punche, and we have no other way to support our community.”

Effects on Wildlife

Just a few kilometers from La Tirana, in the mouth of the Lempa river, surrounded by Mangroves, there used to be a sand island.

The year-round island was observed to be the seasonal home to a colony of American Skimmer birds, the only habitat of its kind observed in Central America. With the rising tide, the island has almost disappeared, now only appearing during low tide. Without a safe place to rest, the Skimmer hasn’t been seen in the area in several years.

“This is clearly an effect of global Climate Change,” claims Dr. Navarro. “And the worst part of it is that there’s nothing we can do to protect these Mangroves and these species of fauna. We as a global community have to take action to stop global warming. The international agreements being discussed today would still allow an increase of up to 5 degrees centigrade through the end of this century. This degree of change would have disastrous effects around the world. What we are seeing here is only the beginning.”

Climate Refugees

Throughout the 70’s and 80’s, waves of Salvadorian refugees fled the country’s violent civil war. In the last decades, immigration has continued, as citizens look to escape extreme poverty and a series of natural disasters, including magnitude 7.7 and 6.7 earthquakes in 2001, and Tropical Storm Agatha in 2010. Extreme storms are becoming more common and more intense, leading to extreme flooding throughout the country and particularly in the Central coast area.

“If things keep going like this, the next wave of immigrants from El Salvador will be Climate Refugees,” says Dr. Navarro.

International organizations ranging from the IPCC to UNESCO are estimating that between 10 and 50 million refugees will flee their homes in the first half of the 21st century because of climate change related disasters.
Community members of La Tirana all agree that things are getting worse each year, and the ocean moving inland faster. If this continues, they may join the millions of refugees fleeing the effects of climate change, and El Salvador’s environmental and social condition will get a little more complicated.

The Butterfly Effect: Julia Butterfly Hill in Magis Magazine

The Butterfly Effect: Julia Butterfly Hill in Magis Magazine

By Tracy L. Barnett
Magis Magazine
October 2011

“Fierce winds ripped huge branches off the thousand-year-old redwood, sending them crashing to the ground two hundred feet below. The upper platform, where I lived, rested in branches about 180 feet in the air … As the tree branches whipped around, they shredded the tarp that served as my shelter. Sleet and hail sliced through the tattered pieces of what used to be my roof and walls. Every new gust flipped the platform up into the air, threatening to hurl me over the edge.”
— Julia “Butterfly” Hill, The Legacy of Luna

It’s hard to say what was the most dramatic moment in that 738 days that Julia “Butterfly” Hill spent atop that platform in a redwood tree named Luna. Perhaps it was the day of that bitter storm and many others that ensued. Perhaps it was the day that a massive helicopter buzzed her tree and nearly blew her to her death with the 300 mph winds created by its updrafts. Perhaps it was the day that a fellow tree sitter had the rope he was standing on cut out from under him by “Climber Dan,” a logger hired by the timber companies to antagonize and remove intransigent activists from the trees they were trying to save from the loggers’ blades.

The full text of this article is currently only available in Spanish. I am currently seeking a publisher for the English version; please contact me at tracy@tracybarnettonline.com if you are interested.

To read the rest of the article click here:

JuliaButterflyHill-in-Magis(oct-nov2011

Esquire Latin America: Huicholes prepare for battle

Esquire Latin America: Huicholes prepare for battle

Esquire Latinoamerica, August 2011
Text and Photos by Tracy L. Barnett

For the Huicholes, the region known as Wirikuta, in North-Central Mexico, is sacred; for a Canadian company it is the base of its next great mining project. Meanwhile, the inhabitants of the village of Real de Catorce, at the heart of Wirikuta, are divided among those who need jobs and those who see the mine as a threat. The debate grows with every day and has reached as far as Canada and the United Nations.

To see the entire article (in Spanish), download here: PDF Huicholes

Permacyclists kick off Journey #2: Latin America

Permacyclists kick off Journey #2: Latin America

Meet Dave and Anna, the Permacyclists.

She was a corporate lawyer from Brussels; he was a sociologist from New York. Neither of them was happy with their chosen profession, and after a great deal of soul searching, they decided to do what many dream of but few actually do: They quit their jobs, studied permaculture, bought bicycles and headed off across Africa, pedaling and working their way through 12 countries, 12,000 kilometers and 16 months from organic farm to organic farm, sharing what they’d learned along the way.

Now they’ve landed in Mexico and are launching a Phase 2 of their journey, but with a difference. This time they’re bringing a video camera and sound equipment, and documenting the stories of people working on solutions to the many environmental problems they have learned about in their travels. Their goal is to make it to the Earth Summit in Rio in June 2012. And this time they’re going by bus, instead of bike, to give them time to do reporting, writing and producing for their blog.

I was inspired by their story and by their plan, since in some ways it parallels my own – so we got together and shared stories. Here’s a little bit of theirs.

The cheery young couple quickly turn sober when they contemplate the ravaged landscape they encountered in Africa – not because of war and famine, the typical scenarios associated with Africa, but because of severe environmental degradation. Soil erosion, deforestation, desertification, invasive species taking over and killing out what’s left of the local ecosystems. “We were biking through all those problems for 16 months,” said Annabelle. “And yes, we have seen some amazing tropical forests, but you could be sure as soon as you left that little national park you would see not a single tree.”

Climate change was a big topic of conversation wherever they went: New York, Belgium, all throughout Africa, and now in Mexico. In Mozambique, they biked along a coast through miles and miles of former rice fields ruined by the saltwater that had flooded them during a tsunami. At Mount Kilimanjaro, they compared historic photos of the ice-capped mountain with its dwindling patch of white.

“How can we deny climate change is happening? People are talking about it everywhere,” said Anna. “They talk about how the rainy season hasn’t come and how its really weird because it’s too wet but not at the right time, and how things have changed.

“But people are acting on this, and that’s the good news.”

That’s how their project evolved to focus on sustainability efforts throughout the continent.

“I find myself much happier when I’m working with people who are working on solutions, rather than those who are saying we are all going to die,” said Annabelle. “To keep saying we’re going to die is not helping, it’s not moving people to action.”

Their families were not happy about their decision to take off across Africa on their bikes. Both mothers, independently of each other, notified them that when they were kidnapped – “not if, but when” – they would not be responsible for the ransom, Dave said. “They took a picture that was a profile of the ear so they could identify us when they found the corpse,” he laughs when he recalls the moment.

And then there was the reaction to Annabelle’s decision to leave her career as a successful lawyer. “It was like: You studied for six years and you have a practice and you’re going to throw it away for what? to go biking?”

There were some actual dangers – they were mock-chargd by a gorilla in Uganda and a hippo in Botswana. “Believe me, when you have that thing of 1.5 tons running toward you in the water, where it’s strongest, and you’e in a little plastic boat…. it’s quite humbling,” Anna recalls.

But the dangers were not at all what the family and friends were worried about. “The image of Africa in the West is just not fair and it’s racist in a lot of ways,” said Dave. Of course, he added, most Westerners haven’t been there, except for a handful who go on safaris, and given the conditions reported by most of the media coverage, it’s a pretty scary place. But the Permacyclists found Africa to be filled with people who were kind, caring and generous.

In Nairobi, he recalled – which has earned the moniker “Nairobbery” – the pair kept a low profile. “We were totally intimidated. We didn’t take a chance, didn’t try to meet local people.” On the last day, nervous at the prospect that they’d have to cross the scary shantytown area, they were surprised to see all the people smiling and waving as they cycled by.

“That same day we met a great guy who ran three kilometers across an open field to tell us we were going the wrong way,” he said. “People were looking out for us, and we didn’t even realize.”

Finally, after many months and many miles, the family came around.

“They saw that we were happy,” said Annabelle.

“And that we didn’t die,” said Dave.

“Let’s face it – some of it’s luck,” said Anna. “Bad things happen – I was a criminal lawyer, so I know. You can get robbed, but you can get robbed in Brussels, too, or New York. So let’s stop being scared. Let’s throw the TV out the window, and let’s get out and meet people. That’s where it’s happening.”

The pair’s second tour of duty started with a three-week natural building class in North Carolina. From there they headed to Houston, where they ran into the folks from Transition Houston, a dynamic part of the Transition Towns movement – who put them in touch with me. Their first video project was about that group and its projects. Here it is.

#1 Transition Houston from Permacyclists on Vimeo.

So far, they say, they’ve been blessed with enthusiastic support everywhere they’ve gone.

“It’s like we’ve stumbled across this underground world of people who are doing amazing things, and now here we are in Guadalajara and we have six interviews lined up and a place to sleep,” said Dave.

To Anna, that response serves to underscore a valuable lesson that their journeys have taught them.

“You know you’re nothing alone – but together, we’re something quite powerful. It’s about the power of groups, the power of community – you’re not alone in this world. Get out and do something, talk to people. It’s really magical.”

Follow the Permacyclists on their blog and on Facebook and Twitter. And check out the trailer for their upcoming movie!

Women’s Sowing Day at the Kalpulli

Women’s Sowing Day at the Kalpulli

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Friday night, the word went out throughout the Kalpulli: The next morning would be the Siembra de Mujeres, the the women’s planting day. The planning had taken a long time, and the date had been postponed three days in a row – rain, problems with the tractor, but now it was really going to happen.

There had been collective plantings before, but it was the first time at Teopantli Kalpulli that the women joined to plant their own milpa, the traditional planting of corn, beans and squash. I have never planted a milpa before, and I was excited to join them. At 7:30 I was waiting in front of the temple, my brand new coa in hand (the coa, I had learned from these women, is a beautiful and ancient agricultural tool that opens the ground easily and smoothly for the insertion of a few seeds, without the planter needing to bend down).

The morning was fresh and bright, with a veil of clouds draped around the crowns of the mountains in the distance. The sun shone on an aromatic earth abundant with the rains of the previous week, but dry enough to crumble easily in the hands. It was indeed a good day to plant.
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Abuela Esperanza, elegantly attired for the occasion in purple, has a disability that makes it hard for her to walk very far, but she drove her truck up to the site and supervised, sharing advice and tidbits of wisdom. She, Bety and Luz Vertila took a look at the way the land was sloping and decided to make semicircular furrows to deter erosion and hold the water in place when it rains. Bety took my coa and a piece of red yarn, tied on one end to the edge of the field, and traced the semicircle in the dirt.
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We had support from a few of our menfolk – most importantly, Rodolfo, with the tractor, but also Lukas, Fernando and David. Rodolfo brought the tractor around and followed Bety’s semicircle but the dried grass left over from last year kept getting caught in the tines. It also piled up in big clumps along the furrows, making it hard to figure out where to plant. It was all quite complicated but eventually the women devised a way to pile the grasses between the furrows and the planting resumed.

Here is where the teamwork came in, and I discovered the beauty of collective planting. Every foot and a half, a woman would drop three grains of corn; halfway in between, the woman behind would drop one or two beans, and every 20 paces, a squash. A third woman followed, tossing in a handful of composted manure for fertilizer, and closed the furrow with a well-placed flick of the foot.
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I worked for awhile with a lovely mother-daughter team, Claudia and Daimara. An hour into our work we had the rhythm down, and some began to sing their thanks to the Mother Earth and the Great Spirit that is Father to us all. At the center of our field, Abuela Amanda created an altar with a cazuela of grains and squash blossoms as an offering. And at each of the points of the four directions and at the center, our textile artist Sofi dug a hole, inserted the bamboo pole and raised a flag, a different, carefully crafted design for each of the cardinal points.
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I brought a container of cut papaya and a bag of peanuts to share, and midway through the siembra I delivered the treats to each of the women to keep their energy up. Sofi and Fernando came later with agua de jamaica, ice-cold red hibiscus tea, that refreshed us all.

We finished our task by mid-afternoon and each of us went home to bathe and rest. That night, each of us in our own homes, awoke to the the satisfying patter of rain on our roofs – a blessing on the maiz and on each of its sembradoras.


Created with Admarket’s flickrSLiDR.

Student Anti-Mining Activist Murdered in El Salvador

Student Anti-Mining Activist Murdered in El Salvador

(Above: “No to mining, yes to life” reads a poster commemorating the four Cabañas anti-mining activists killed last year: Marcelo Rivera; Dora Alicia Recinos; Manuel, her unborn child; and Ramiro Rivera.)

Editor’s note: Last year around this time, I accompanied a group of anti-mining activists in the state of Cabañas, El Salvador, who were commemorating a Mass for four “environmental martyrs,” as their priest and their community called them. I was deeply moved by their commitment to give their lives, if necessary, to protect their lands and waters.

A year later, no one has been convicted of the crimes. It pained me greatly to read today that the body of another activist, a student involved with the same group that marched and prayed together when I was there, was discovered in a common grave, dead of a gunshot to the head.

Please, take a few moments to respond to the CISPES Alert below. Let the Salvadoran government know that the world is watching.

COMMITTEE IN SOLIDARITY WITH THE PEOPLE OF EL SALVADOR
ACTION ALERT!

June 14, 2011

Student Anti-Mining Activist Disappeared:
Tell the Attorney General and the Minister of Public Security to Open an Investigation TODAY!

“Two years after the kidnapping and murder of anti-mining activist Marcelo Rivera, those responsible for his death continue to do as they please while prosecutors and the police continue with false assumptions and inadequate investigations.” –Communiqué from the Environmental Committee of Cabañas for the Defense of Water and Culture (CAC)

As a result of this impunity, another case of violence has arisen – the disappearance of Juan Francisco Duran Ayala. Thirty year-old Juan Francisco is a member of the CAC and was last seen over a week ago when he was going to classes in San Salvador, the day after he was putting up flyers and banners against mining and the Canadian mining company Pacific Rim as part of a CAC campaign. The CAC reports that the mayor of Ilobasco, José Maria Dimas Castellano ordered members of the municipal police to remove the banners and intimidate the activists hanging them.

Juan Francisco´s father Benjamin Ayala Flores is the Coordinator of the FMLN war veterans association. He lives in Ilobasco and his dream is to see his son graduate with a degree in languages from the Technological University, where Juan Francisco has been studying for over three years.

Join the CAC and the family of Juan Francisco in calling on the Attorney General’s Office and the Civilian National Police (PNC) to conduct a thorough and exhaustive investigation into all the cases of violence towards community leaders in Cabañas and to specifically set up a task force to investigate the disappearance of Juan Francisco. The CAC demands that the investigations look for ties between this case of violence and local mayors José Ignacio Bautista, Edgar Bonilla and Eliseo Castellano as well as any ties to the mining company Pacific Rim.

TAKE ACTION!

1. If you speak Spanish, please also call Salvadoran Attorney General Romeo Barahona at 011-503- 2230-6350 (see sample script below).

2. Email the Attorney General Romeo Barahona and Minister of Justice and Security Manuel Melgar to demand a full investigation and protection for the victims.

Call Script for Attorney General Barahona(direct number for his assistant, Héctor Burgos: 011-503-2230-6350)

Buenos (días/tardes),

Mi nombre es _______ y llamo para expresar mi preocupación sobre la desaparición de Juan Francisco Duran Ayala y la violencia contra líderes sociales en Cabañas.

Urge una investigación profunda sobre la desaparición del Señor Duran Ayala con un equipo especializado, y así también es necesario re-abrir los casos de Marcelo Rivera, Dora Alicia Sorto y Ramiro Rivera para investigar vínculos entre estos caso, los asesinatos de Darwin Serrano y Gerardo Abrego León, las nuevas amenazas contra el personal de Radio Victoria y la desaparición del Señor Duran Ayala.

El hecho de que la violencia y amenazas anteriores quedaron en impunidad ha permitido que surgieran los nuevos hechos de violencia. Pido que el Fiscal General tome las medidas necesarias para asegurar justicia y protección para las y los afectados.

Gracias.

For more information see: www.cispes.org

Images from last year’s march and Mass for Marcelo Rivera and other activists killed in Cabañas:


Created with Admarket’s flickrSLiDR.

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