Guadalajara Archive

Heading for Guadalajara

Heading for Guadalajara

COLUMBIA, Missouri – A shooting star snaked across the blackness of the night sky as we pulled out onto I-70 in our pickup truck, utility trailer in tow, a brilliant blessing on our journey. Some 2,000 miles of road beckoned, with a new home in Guadalajara on the other end. But for now, one last lingering visit with family at my brother’s house in Kansas.

It’s been a long, long journey since I launched the Esperanza Project a year ago, taking me as far south as Buenos Aires and full circle to the place that, Lord willing, will be my new home in Mexico. I found a casita for rent in the ecovillage Teopantli Kalpulli – the oldest ecovillage in Mexico and the subject of a story I recently wrote for Ecovillage News. I was charmed and impressed with the community when I wrote about it in January, and when my friend Levi told me about a house for rent there that cost less than my storage locker in Houston (truly!!!) I took it as a sign.

I’ve always thought that I would end up living in Mexico someday – not so soon, but finances are telling me, it’s almost time to renew my storage locker and after so much movement, I’m feeling the need to stop for a moment, plant some seeds, do some thinking and some writing, and build a solid base to launch my travels from. Teopantli seemed just the place.

My life has come full circle in a way this year. It was in Guadalajara that I connected with the group at Teopantli and also an indigenous rights group called AJAGI that works with the Huicholes. Here’s a story I wrote about them last February after a trip with them to Huichol territory in the mountains of Durango. Long story short, as I was looking for guidance on the direction of The Esperanza Project, I was drawn back to Guadalajara where I will be working on freelance and book projects for the first part of the year and also be accompanying AJAGI and the Huicholes as I document their struggle to save their most sacred site, Wirikuta, as I explain here.

So just a couple of weeks ago I landed in Missouri and with the help of my amazing father found a truck and a trailer to haul my things. Many twists and turns along that trail, beginning with a bad transmission in the first vehicle, but all is working its way out. My daughter Tara has agreed to accompany me on this journey, and Saturday we drove to Houston to unpack my storage locker, sort out what I wanted to take with me to Mexico, visit with friends – Mona Metzger of Houston Green Scene and Lise Olsen of the Houston Chronicle and head on to San Antonio, to spend the night at the home of Audrey Lee, the dear friend who has backed me up on this journey more than anyone, receiving my mail, dealing with my emergencies and serving as a sounding board and emotional support. Yesterday we did much a much needed shopping trip, and now we are preparing to make our crossing. We decided to splurge our last night in the USA and got a room at La Posada, recently named the No. 1 hotel in Texas by Expedia – and it’s easy to see why.

We ran into big headaches at the border (note to anyone who is thinking about taking a car to Mexico: Never, ever, ever leave the country without having your permit canceled. Sooner or later, the car must be returned and the permit canceled, or you will never again be allowed to bring another vehicle into the country – even if it’s sitting in a snowy field a thousand miles away. The quick fix was to have the truck and trailer title transfered into my daughter’s name. In the long run, my car must come back to the border – thank God I hadn’t sold it yet!)

We also ran into an ice storm in Saltillo, broken trailer lights, good cops and bad cops, and a rusty bumper that had to be welded back into place after hitting one too many “topes” (Mexican monster speed bumps). The whole story is here.

The second part of the year I will resume my travels with a special focus on indigenous struggles to save their land and cuture. Meanwhile, the battle to save Wirikuta is heating up, and there are many stories to be told.

I will be writing much more about all of this in the months ahead. Meanwhile I continue to pray for guidance and support as I chart my course and share the stories of those who are tending the fires hope from south of the border.

Guadalajara Guerreros: Fighting for a better world

Guadalajara Guerreros: Fighting for a better world

Today I awoke in the verdant mountains near Tepoztlán in Central Mexico, far from the commotion of city life in Guadalajara. Before I move on, I want to take a few moments to acknowledge the work of 24 extremely dedicated, talented and creative people I met during my time in that city, people who touched my life and gave me hope for a better future.

To read about them, please visit Guerreros de Guadalajara, a bilingual entry in my Flickr account.

La Minerva, warrior woman of old and symbol of modern-day Guadalajara, photo courtesy of TheLittleTx, Flickr Creative Commons.

A City For All – not just for cars

A City For All – not just for cars

I’ll never forget the day in November when I opened my Facebook page and discovered that the trees that had shaded the boulevard a few blocks from my friends’ home in Guadalajara were being marked for the chainsaw.

Ciudad Para Todos (City For All) had issued a call to arms – or, more precisely, a call to tents. Within 24 hours this group of young professionals – architects, computer technicians, journalists, and others – had mobilized an encampment at one of the city’s biggest intersections, drawing attention to a project they considered emblematic of a city transportation policy gone mad.

(Photo courtesy of Ciudad Para Todos)

Regular Esperanza Project readers may remember the chain of events that followed from the series of posts I republished from their blog, “Pasalo Aún Mejor.”

It didn’t take me long to find myself at the forlorn site of this encampment. Once there were yoga workshops under the trees, children’s painting parties, nighttime showings of classic films. Now the place is overrun with bulldozers, noise and dust and enclosed in about a half-mile of chain link fence. Any sign of trees has been proficiently eradicated. And prominently located on both ends of the construction project are banners proclaiming: “Obra en proceso: Trabaja por tu beneficio” (Work in progress: Working for your benefit.) I take my life in my hands every time I have to traverse this stretch, since there are no sidewalks and the traffic flies by, but the alternative is to add 20 minutes to my walk.

The group first captured my attention in October when I was in Guadalajara for the Society of American Travel Writers conference. They were opposing a $76 million dollar overpass, the “Puente Atirantado,” which was planned to ease traffic congestion along one of the city’s main thoroughfares. Spending so much of the overtaxed treasury on a single bridge, when the city lacked a cohesive public transit system, bikeways, crosswalks and sidewalk maintenance just didn’t make sense, they argued. Ciudad Para Todos and other groups like Com:Plot called instead for a comprehensive transportation plan.

Ultimately the monthlong encampment failed to stop the bridge, but it did achieve something else: It raised awareness throughout the city for the dire need of a more multifaceted, organized approach to transportation (or, as they call it here, mobility). Now the members are regrouping after a much-needed rest to decide their next strategy.

Jesus Carlos 'El Negro' Soto, Felipeno Reyes, and Karla Preciado of Ciudad Para Todos

Recently I sat down with three of the most active leaders, Jesus Carlos “El Negro,” Karla Preciado and Felipeno Reyes. They shared their thoughts about the encampment, social change, mobility and more.

Jesús Carlos “El Negro” Soto

The first thing one notices about “El Negro,” as his friends call him, is his engaging smile – not the bronze skin that earned him the common nickname. Soto first became interested in the environment from his passion for social justice. Now a computer specialist, he studied philosophy at ITESO, a Jesuit university in Guadalajara, and he always identified with the downtrodden.

“I always loved nature, of course,” he said. “But what really called my attention were the social questions: poverty, exclusion.” He joined with the Jesuits to work with at risk families in the outskirts of the city, families where sometimes 19 people – grandparents, aunts, uncles, parents, children – would all live in a single room. Eventually he left the Jesuits, but he kept working in the communities on his own, and at one point he had the idea to start a bicycle workshop. He managed to pull together a collection of 15 used bicycles and repaired them, lending them out to the neighborhood children.

It was around that time, in 2007, that the city decided to turn Avenida Lopez Mateos into a citywide viaduct, eliminating the red lights and making it virtually impossible for pedestrians to cross without risking their lives.

On Sept. 22 of that year, several local citizen groups decided to join the international Day Without Automobiles, promoting a day of alternative transportation. Various groups launched a protest along Lopez Mateos, and that’s when Soto began to see the connection between the environment and the social justice issues he’d always pursued.

That group went on to form Ciudad Para Todos. Despite the group’s origins at a protest, its strategy quickly evolved beyond placard-holding picket lines. Instead, they began organizing festivals to present sustainability issues in a fun, family-friendly context. In Guadalajara’s conservative, family-oriented environment, the movement quickly gained ground where others did not.

“We know that tapatíos (Guadalajarans) are a people who are basically apathetic,” he said. “They don’t like to involve themselves in political matters, in community issues. They’re more a conservative type of people, who like to be at home and at work, with their families and friends, and maintain themselves in a world that’s very private, very personal.”

It challenged the activists to think about a way to present issues that would be proactive, instead of reactive. “We had to think about what we really wanted, and not just what we didn’t want.”

Many of the original members are gone now, and others have come to take their place, but the group has retained its original mission: to promote a more people-centered form of city planning, in a way that’s fun, creative and enticing.

But when the trees started coming down in the camellon of Lopez Mateos, the strategy quickly changed. The camellones are broad, tree-lined medians between the traffic lanes, and in huge expanses of the city, they are the only public green space. Some have walkways and are the most convenient place to walk the dog or go jogging. So few open green spaces are left that people feel the loss of every tree. So Ciudad Para Todos decided to take a stand.

The encampment, with its lineup of entertainment and educational activities for the community, always attracted a crowd, and gave the activists an opening to talk about the need for public space, and for a cohesive city transportation plan, one that provided options for everyone, not just those who own cars.

Karla “La Sub” Preciado Robles

Karla, for her part, grew up in a conservative family focused on work, family and neighborhood, but she got a completely different view as a communications major in the liberal environment of ITESO. She started working with human rights groups and environmental groups on campus, but when it came time to graduate, she ended up working in the construction industry.

“It was then that I really started getting interested in how communities are formed,” she says. “How the city grows, how the air becomes contaminated, how areas that were once green and only had trees are now full of people – how a highway that was just constructed two months ago to ease the traffic is already full.”

The company took over a tract in Barranca de Huentitán, an ecologically sensitive canyon that was supposedly protected, “and they just started selling it like pieces of bread,” she said.

“So from those roots, I ended up leaving my job, because it was depressing me.”

She drifted for a few months, trying to find her place, then began working on the campaign of a man who was running for public office and part of his platform was developing a system of bike lanes. This put her in touch with Felipeno Reyes, a local architect who is the author of a popular biking blog and one of the founders of Ciudad Para Todos. He and Jesús recruited Karla to be their communications person.

“That’s how I started out, but it didn’t take long before I was doing everything – I started out as the nice face of Ciudad Para Todos and ended up being the rude face,” she laughed. Soon her background in communications took hold, and she became an eloquent spokesperson for the encampment and for a more sustainable city. She discovered a new, more assertive side that some called bossy – but she didn’t mind. She adopted the nickname “La Sub” after Subcommandante Marcos, as a joke, and it stuck.

“One of the big lessons of Ciudad Para Todos that we want to share with the people is that this is your city – and you can live well or you can live poorly, and it’s really up to you.”

“We want to show that another city is possible,” Soto added. “That even though we have all this traffic, even though we have a city that’s disorganized and polluted and badly planned, it’s still possible to fix it, because they’ve done so in other places.”

Upcoming: Forgive me, folks, but I’ve run out of space, time and steam. On the agenda: A thought-provoking interview with architect Felipeno Reyes, author of the biking blog Felipeno and one of the founders of Ciudad Para Todos.

It’s not enough to be biodegradeable…

It’s not enough to be biodegradeable…

Life in Guadalajara is not so different from life in Houston. Sometimes, only the language is different.

My friend Alicia, like me, struggles to remember to bring the cloth shopping bags when she goes to the supermarket. This day, she remembered. Here’s a little reminder she likes to keep handy:

“It’s not enough to be biodegradeable; it’s necessary to be bioAGREEABLE.”

I liked the way this clever slogan captured one of the most important principles of sustainability: “Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.” In that order.

The Rolling Cameras of Guadalajara

The Rolling Cameras of Guadalajara

By Tracy L. Barnett
Last week I had the chance to visit with Carlos Ibarra, news photographer for El Mural and one of the founders of Camara Rodante (literally, “rolling camera”.)

Carlos with his collection of miniature bicycles and a photo of his father, an avid bicyclist.

This intrepid group of biking photographers is dedicated to promoting biking in a variety of ways. Besides their weekly outings, which traverse a variety of rural terrains around Guadalajara and further afield, they’ve organized get-out-the-vote campaigns, children’s outings, first aid workshops, bicycle repair workshops, and a fundraiser for Haiti – all aboard the seat of a bicycle.

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(Haiti Benefit Ride – Photos by Carlos Ibarra)

Founded by Carlos and other local photographers about two years ago, the group has grown to include non-photographers, as well, and works to initiate beginners into the biker’s life.

“It doesn’t matter if you’re a beginner, or a child, or even if you’ve never been on a bicycle,” Ibarra said. “The idea is to get out there and start pedaling, and we want to help with that. We’ve even had some riders who want to go faster, and they’ve gone on to form their own groups because we’re too slow – that’s ok. There’s room for everybody.”
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That said, the group does some pretty heavy trekking, by a beginner’s standards. A recent fundraising ride for Haiti went 100 kilometers. And the off-trail mountain biking in Jalisco’s rugged countryside can be a challenge, especially when a storm comes up – as it did on a recent campout in Juan Rulfo country, from San Gabriel to Tapalpa.

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“It was cool,” Ibarra enthused, showing photographs of dripping, smiling bikers. “It was an adventure.”

And indeed, this must be the most documented biking group of all time, with as many photographers as there are among its ranks. Here’s a slide show of the highlights from the group’s last two years.

Create your own video slideshow at animoto.com.

The group provides plenty of fun for the younger set, as well. A recent bicycle fiesta for the children, neices, nephews and young friends of Camara Rodante featured piñatas in the shape of cars.

“We were playing a little with the idea: Get rid of the cars!” said Ibarra, chuckling. “que no son muchos. It was something symbolic, and the kids loved it. Others didn’t want to because they liked the little car. But we were reinforcing the idea of using the bike – that it’s good for your health, that it doesn’t pollute, that you can move yourself quickly and easily.”
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Com:Plot conspires to take back a city

Com:Plot conspires to take back a city

One of the most intriguing groups in Guadalajara is Com:Plot, whose name is a play on words; “com,” for “community,” and “plot” as in “scheme” – plus the word “complot” means “conspiracy” in Spanish.

Com:Plot’s mission is to encourage the city’s development in a more sustainable, more human-oriented direction. One of the most successful projects to date has been the City Walks, or Camina por Guadalajara. The city is divided up by participants and a route stretching across the city is mapped for each team. The 40-kilometer walk is done over two days, and along the way, participants take note of the changes along the way.

“The idea is that we go along discovering the city: how it’s growing, what’s happening, how it smells, how it feels at different times of the day,” said Patricia Martínez, an environmental journalist and occasional Esperanza Project contributor who has joined forces with Com:Plot. So we experience the city with all our senses. It’s more than a recognition of what occurs within our urban borders, it also proposes other ideas like the recuperation of public spaces.”

They pass through posh suburbs, working-class neighborhoods, abandoned byways and truly depressing locales. When each team returns, members put their heads together to identify a problem area where they will plan an “intervention,” an action that will help turn the tide in that troubled area, or at least bring public awareness to the problem.

Patricia shared with me some stories and photos from the second Caminata, held last fall. Right now they are gearing up for the third Caminata, to be held the second weekend in February in conjunction with the city’s 467th anniversary. If you’re interested in participating, check out their website here for more info. Meanwhile, here’s a little “before” and “after” from one of the group’s most creative “interventions.”

Miravalle Playground: Before

Create your own video slideshow at animoto.com.

Miravalle Playground: After

The destruction was too costly to repair or replace. What the group did do was clean up the area and use stark white stenciled letters to illustrate what should have been there: Proud mother, lovers, children, tree, paint, trash can, basketball game, green. The result:

Create your own video slideshow at animoto.com.

Another intervention, equally as poignant, took place at Las Pintas lake. This lake between Tlaquepaque and El Salto has been polluted since the late ’70s, and the children of young families who live nearby have no place to play.
The intervention: Com:Plot members created sillhouettes of children playing, fishing, spending time at the lake like they used to do.

Create your own video slideshow at animoto.com.

El Parque Nómada, or Nomad Park, was a profound statement on the need for a more inclusive transportation policy. The team created crosswalks and bikeways where there were none, literally rolling out the red carpet for pedestrians to demonstrate that they were really “kings of the road.”

Create your own video slideshow at animoto.com.

In their own words:
“El Parque Nómada questions the monopoly of the use of public space by automobiles, liberating the space monopolized by cars to enable the use of other activities and more inclusive transportation alternatives. The citizen on foot can experience the possibility of a city at a more human scale in his or her own neighborhood, with pleasant spaces where they can circulate by bicycle, walk, or rest, meeting other walkers or having the chance to develop their own dynamic. With this exercise, we evoke the longing that is dispersed amid the auto exhaust and the noise of engines, so that this desire will grow and these neighbors will take up the idea themselves.”

One more intervention, the bus stop, was very practical. The team built a bus shelter from discarded wooden pallets. When a government inspector complained and threatened to remove it, they simply ignored him; commuters showed their approval with appreciative use, and the shelters remained.

Click Patricia_Martinez_interview to see the interview with Patricia.

Guadalajara by night… and by bike

Guadalajara by night… and by bike

By Tracy L. Barnett
It’s not every day you get to ride with 500 enthusiastic bicyclists to the theater. But in Guadalajara, you can do it once a week.


Created with Admarket’s flickrSLiDR.

Matter of fact, you can ride with a herd of cyclists pretty much any night of the week – just pick your flavor. “Al Teatro en Bici” (To the Theater by Bicycle”) is one of a seemingly endless number of bicycle-oriented initiatives in Guadalajara. There’s Camera Rodante, a hard-riding group of biking photographers. There’s GDL en Bici, a group of young professionals dedicated to reclaiming the streets for all commuters, not just cars. Their nocturnal rides, each one with a theme and costumed riders, have drawn upwards of 4,000 participants.

Tuesday I got a taste of the Guadalajara bicycle explosion, as well as why it may have sprung up here. Guadalajara is a city that revolves, like most U.S. cities, around the automobile, and public transit is somewhat disorganized. A morning taxi ride to Tonalá, a village on the southern outskirts, took me 15 minutes; the bus ride back, an hour and a half. It took longer than that to figure out how to take the bus back to Tonalá.

And that’s not even mentioning the aggressive stance a pedestrian must take in order to negotiate the glorietas, traffic circles where a seemingly endless churning mass of vehicles whirl past.

Little wonder, then, in a city where many people don’t have cars, that frustrated commuters turned to bicycles, then teamed up to find safety in numbers. It couldn’t have been easy, however; in a city where just a few years ago, bicycles were seen primarily as a vehicle for street vendors and poor people.

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On Tuesday, the first ride after the holidays, hundreds milled about with their bicycles in front of Punto del Arte, a classy cafe in the Centro. Suddenly a shout rang out – “Ya vamos!” followed by the voice of Aretha Franklin blaring from the loudspeakers attached to the lead bicycle.
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“What you want, baby, I got it… What you need, you know I got it. All I’m askin’ for is a little respect…”

I don’t know about the impatient drivers who waited as the wheeled hordes streamed through the red lights, but the message wasn’t lost on me.
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The eclectic soundtrack weaved from Rolling Stones to Caifanes, from Lynyrd Skynyrd to Café Tacuba to Guns ‘N Roses, and the elation was so high you could feel it bouncing from the Beaux Arts decor in the old city streets. We plied those streets for about an hour before ending up at the spectacular neoclassical Teatro Degollado, where we piled in to see a free showing of ZaikoCirco, a surrealistic international troupe of circus performers who, of course, supported the effort with bicycles in their act.

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All in all, a phenomenal performance – beginning with the commute.

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Taking the encampment to a bigger field

Taking the encampment to a bigger field

By Tracy L. Barnett
Lead photo by Gerardo Montes de Oca Valadez

A Guadalajara citizen encampment aimed at stopping a $76 million bridge construction project has packed up after a month of awareness-raising activities about sustainable urban development, from movies and plays to classes and workshops. But they’re not going away, they promise.

This video from Ciudad Para Todos is their colorful and defiant farewell to the encampment.

From Ciudad Para Todos on YouTube:

“After a month of cultural and informative activities, face to face with our fellow citizens and confronting the authorities, cold weather and annoying motorists, our encampment has moved (but it’s not going away).

“The motive: A wish to change for other (less contaminated) airs, to shift strategies, to continue the struggle on many other fronts.

“We’ll continue camping, we’ll continue showing movies, we’ll continue sowing and harvesting the future on every sidewalk that will receive us. For a city for all, for an inclusive city, for a sustainable city that guarantees a future for generations to come.”

Translations of the signs in the video:

“Let’s exchange the bridge for quality of life.”
“Let’s exchange the bridge for democracy.”
“City of humans, not of cars: Con-science!”
“Your bridge crosses me: through the Millenium Arches and under the Arcediano (Arcediano Dam: A $300 million project flagged by American Rivers as a threat to the region)
“Let’s exchange government for bicycles”
“Let’s exchange the bridge for common sense”
“SEDEUR (Secretary of Urban Development) = Secretary of Urban Despotism”
“Keep the coins, we want change”
“Let’s exchange the bridge for public space”
“The encampment has moved, it has not gone away…. to be continued!”

Read the whole story here (in Spanish)

We are looking for volunteer translators – please write to tracy@theesperanzaproject.org if you’re interested!

Guadalajara citizens stall $76 million bridge project

Guadalajara citizens stall $76 million bridge project


By Patricia Martinez
A citizen encampment has temporarily halted an emblematic public works project of the State of Jalisco in Guadalajara. They are young professionals and common residents who took it upon themselves to oppose the construction of a suspension bridge that would cost an estimated $76 million, which would permit two avenues to cross more quickly.

Ciudad Para Todos (City For All) is the collective that installed the informative encampment the day that work began on the project, as a demonstration of their rejection of a project that promotes a model of an unsustainable city: based on the use of the automobile.

For two weeks the tents have been pitched among felled trees, machinery and the speeding traffic between Lázaro Cárdenas and López Mateos avenues; since then, they have hoped that the authorities would sit down and dialog with them, but their calls have not been returned.

Ciudad Para Todos has been camped among the felled trees for two weeks.<br />
(Patricia Karenina photos)

Ciudad Para Todos has been camped among the felled trees for two weeks. (Patricia Karenina photos)

The group is asking for “a bridge of dialog” to negotiate an Integrated Transportation Plan that would establish a baseline for the increase in automobiles, the degradation of public space, environmental deterioration and safety of pedestrians and cyclists, among other matters.

“We are betting on a compact, sustainable city, one that permits anyone to arrive quickly at their destination without risking their life, without contaminating the environment and without damaging the urban fabric,” said Felipe Reyes, a member of the collective who withstood the near-freezing nighttime temperatures of the encampment.

The vehicular bridge will require an investment of a billion pesos, he said, but it will also require seven other consecutive transportation projects to complete their final objective: speeding up vehicular transit. Currently an automobile takes 163 seconds to cross this bridge, at 18 kilometers per hour; with the bridge, it would 42 to 48 kilometers per hour, promises the government.

“We want a city where people can be the priority, and the quality of life will not be sacrificed for the interminable demand on space for private transport,” the collective stated.

Follow the group’s activities at:
pasaloaunmejor.wordpress.com

www.pasalomejor.jalisco.gob.mx

Amid sweat and tears, Esperanza is born

<!--:en-->Amid sweat and tears, Esperanza is born<!--:-->

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Here in the darkness of the temezcal, sweat, steam and mud become one with the throbbing beat of Teresa’s drum. The heat bears down, melting away the boundaries between us. Rhythms from her Mayan heritage rise in the air with the incense-like scent of copal, her voice carrying us to a place beyond time. She asks me to translate, and her songs and prayers flow through me like water.

We fly like eagles, with wings of light/circumnavigating the universe… we are warriors of light.

She calls on the ancients, and on the spirits of the elements and the four directions, asking for a blessing for each of us huddled together in the tiny dome. She teaches us the grito of the warrior, a shout from the depths of our souls that pulls us through round after round of nearly unbearable heat.

Offer your sweat to Mother God, Father God, she advises us. It will help you to endure the suffering.

The heat and the rhythm intensify, and the air is heavy with skin-searing steam. Her words are passing through me now in rhythmic gasps.

Just when we think we can bear no more, she brings out a waxy chunk of white copal and touches it to the red-hot rock in the center of the temezcal. Each of us takes it in turn and whispers the prayer closest to our hearts.

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