Guatemala City Archive

Hotel Ajau: A green deal in Guatemala City

Hotel Ajau: A green deal in Guatemala City

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GUATEMALA CITY – I have spent the past week making contacts, getting the lay of the land and working on freelance stories, and I couldn’t have found a better home-away-from-home here in the capital city than Hotel Ajau.

I’ll admit I chose it because I read in Rough Guides that it offered a good price, free wireless, good coffee and a nice atmosphere in the historic district. Little did I know that I had inadvertently chosen the city’s first “green” hotel – at least the first to be certified as such by Guatemala’s Green Deal organization.

Nor did I know it was the labor of love of three generations of French-Guatemalans. Three generations of the Luis Rey Tarot family have infused this elegant historic neo-colonial building (or republican, as it’s called here) with a sense of home.
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Left to right: Silvia , Maria Isabel and Luis Rey Tarot II.

It all began with a French immigrant who decided to flee the violence of World War II and cast his lot in the in the coffee-growing region of Alta Verapaz, Guatemala. His grandson, Luis Rey Tarot I, moved to the city in the late 1980s, bought the grand old house, fixed it up and dedicated it to his grandfather, decorating it in the style of an old coffee plantation house. The hotel’s name was a Quiché Maya twist on the family name, “Rey” or “King;” Ajau means king in Quiché.
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“There were already a number of hotels with the name ‘Rey,’ and we were looking for something different. So we thought back to our homeland, and came up with ‘Ajau,’” said Luis I, whom I met on my second day as he worked behind the counter.

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Luis II, left, and Luis I, right.

“Are you the owner?” I asked the kindly, European-looking gentleman. “No,” he laughed. “I’m just another worker, like everyone else.” It wasn’t until days later that I realized he was the hotel’s founder.

It was the second Luis Rey Tarot, the one who is now in charge, who implemented the hotel’s environmental policy. The family switched over to biodegradable cleaning supplies and trained the workers in how to use them effectively; they’ve converted much of the lighting to energy-efficient fluorescent and continue to do so; and they’ve established recycling bins throughout the hotel for paper, plastic and other receptacles, and wife Silvia de Rey collects the contents daily and drives them home, where there’s space to keep them for the weekly pickup. Recycling has cut back their waste disposal to a third of what it once was.

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The hotel’s café provides local and regional products as much as possible, including coffee from cooperatives in Coban and Antigua and honey from Ixcan. Daughter Maria Isabel is working on a flier for hotel guests that will explain how they can be more environmentally sensitive while enjoying their travels in Guatemala.

They began the process a decade ago when Luis first took over the hotel. “I grew up bathing in the rivers of my family homeland in Coban,” he said. “You can’t do that anymore; they’re all becoming polluted. I wanted to do something about that.”

The family was rewarded with official recognition when they became the first hotel in Guatemala City to receive the Green Deal certification. This program required certification applicants to comply with certain guidelines in three categories: social, environmental, and worker relations.

“It’s important to realize the most important part of a hotel is the workers,” said Luis II. For that reason they subsidize health care expenses for workers and their families, provide special services like eye exams and glasses, and try to provide a family environment for everyone. And indeed the workers have been the ones who have done the most to make me feel at home.

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Manrique Vasquez, receptionist, who is also studying to be a radio broadcaster.

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Floridalma Reyes, the excellent chef.

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Pablo Santos, the watchful security man.

It’s been a challenge to run a green business in Guatemala, they say – in part, because the government offers no support or incentives or even tax credits for businesses that want to make a shift to more sustainable practices. Eco-friendly products like compact fluorescent light bulbs and biodegradable cleaning products are hard to get and much more expensive here. There’s also a lack of information about products and options locally, and doing your own research can lead to some costly mistakes, they’ve found.

For example, there was the time they invested in compact fluorescent bulbs for the public areas – but the wattage was too low and guests complained that the areas were dark. Then they bought the fluorescent rings, only to discover that they contained mercury.

Sometimes the answers are closer to home, however, Silvia went to an environmental seminar and learned that she could cut back on water consumption by placing a brick or a bottle of water in each toilet tank.

“I came home all excited, ready to put bricks in all the tanks,” she laughed. “Unfortunately I found that there wasn’t room. There wasn’t even room for a small water bottle.”

After trying several approaches a worker asked her what she was trying to do.

“Oh, that’s easy!” he told her, and showed her how to adjust the flushing mechanism to allow less water to fill the tanks.

Of course, nothing is really easy in Guatemala, and the organization that administered the Green Deal program is now defunct, so they and other sustainable business owners are going through another process to be re-certified. The new program that will administer certification for sustainable businesses, GREAT Green Deal, will be CERTIFICA (Certificaciones de Centroamérica, S.A.)

I will be continuing to write about this program as it unfolds. Meanwhile, questions can be directed to CERTIFICA General Manager Carmen Perez at carmen.perez@sellosverdes.com or to the business promotor, Marlen Garcia, at marlen.garcia@sellosverdes.com. The group hopes to have a website of certified businesses up and running soon, and they’ve promised to keep me posted.

“The new certification process is not necessarily a bad thing, said Marlen Garcia. “It gives us another chance to connect with business owners that have demonstrated an interest in the implementation of best practices related to sustainable tourism and also have demonstrated social and environmental responsibility. Even though we and the owners have found that this new program is more rigorous than the last one, we agree that it will give more credibility to the efforts done by them before third parties and new markets.”

Meanwhile, the Reys are focusing on doing what they can to make their corner of the world a better place.

“We want our grandchildren to have the things we enjoyed when we were growing up,” said Silvia. “We have everything here in Guatemala – volcanoes, lakes, rivers, beaches – but we have to do a better job of conserving them.”


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Surfing couches in Guatemala City

Surfing couches in Guatemala City

Top, Cristina Diaz; above, José David Diaz.

GUATEMALA CITY – The city sparkled below me like a carpet of diamonds, flung carelessly over the valley and clinging to the surrounding mountains. This is probably as beautiful as Guatemala’s capital city gets, I thought, then scolded myself for the unwelcome thought. I only know the city from reading about it, and from a single pass through to the airport. Hardly enough to judge. I should know by now that you can’t judge a city by the media coverage – look at Mexico City, for example, which I’ve come to love.

And indeed my first night in the Guatemala City has put the lie to the widespread condemnation of Central America’s largest megalopolis. Thanks to Couchsurfing.com, I had friends waiting for me with dinner and directions, maps and guides and ideas for my project. I took a taxi to their beautiful home next to a park in a leafy neighborhood in Zona 2 and received a family welcome.

Couchsurfing, for the uninitiated, is an international web-based community of people who like to travel and learn about other cultures, but don’t necessarily want to spend a fortune on hotels. Members offer to share their couch or bed with travelers for a night or two or three. There is no charge, only an unspoken agreement that someday you’ll offer a space for another traveler. Besides saving money, the system gives immediate entry and insight into the local culture.

I’d heard rave reviews about couchsurfing and decided one day to give it a try. Just a day ago, I sat in a café in St. Louis, Mo., and entered my profile, then scanned a list of about 70 members from Guatemala City. Jose David Diaz, a Guatemalan restoration ecologist who works with the Ministry of the Environment, was my top choice, and I dropped him a line. A few minutes later, I received a warm welcome.

The next night, here I was, eating dinner with him and his parents – Cristina, his mother, had made chili con carne Texas-style especially for me, and a wonderful watercress fritter, Swiss chard with red sweet peppers, corn on the cob and fresh corn tortillas. She’d outdone herself.

Jose David, for his part, shared with me information about several groups he knows about who are working on interesting projects – a watershed protection project in the eastern province of Baja Verapaz, near the city of Coban, where I have been planning to go already; and a collaborative project of indigenous communities in the Central Highlands who are working together to protect the forests from timber poaching and other destructive incursions. He also showed me an excellent website with topographic maps of the entire country, and gave me his brief overview of the country’s environmental status.

He worries about the petroleum exploration going on in the Lago del Tigre wetlands preserve to the south.

“It’s a very fragile, very special habitat and I just can’t bear to think of what would happen if there were an accident,” he said, and we both shuddered, thinking of the environmental disaster currently unfolding in the Gulf of Mexico. Just today, the news emerged that the mile-deep oil well leak is spewing not 1,000 barrels a day, but 5,000, and scientists fear it will wipe out fragile ecosystems along the Gulf Coast.

Jose David has given me his bedroom while he sleeps on a mattress in the living room. What amazing hospitality! It’s a beautiful room, spacious with a huge window looking out onto a tiny back garden. Pictures and mementos from his world travels are everywhere: Santiago Compostela and Madrid, Amsterdam and Africa, Honduras and El Salvador.

Yesterday’s trip was a good one – I sat next to a Guatemalan technology engineer with a renewable energy company who travels to China and Hong Kong regularly for his work.

He told me the Chinese are investing heavily in wind and solar, something I’ve been hearing in other quarters. He told me of driving through miles and miles of windmill farms on the outskirts of Shanghai – “This is not Don Quixote,” he exclaimed. “This is real!”

Meanwhile, we shared a moment of sadness about the massive oil slick approaches the Gulf Coast. Great Britain, he said, is pulling back from offshore drilling. So far, no word on this from the Obama administration.

At the same time, he was troubled by the harsh new Arizona law requiring immigrants to carry ID with them at all times – not surprising, as the law’s passage has dominated newspapers throughout Latin America and drawn criticism from regional leaders.

“Apparently Americans don’t realize that it’s the immigrants who keep the economy going,” he said. “After all, everybody in America comes from Europe. So they are immigrants too!”