Polo Montanez Archive

Riding with the bulls in Viñales

Riding with the bulls in Viñales

(Author’s note: Now I’m looking out on the Carribean from the southern coast of Belize, but I’m taking a few days to catch up, catch my breath and write about Cuba and Mexico. Please excuse the lack of chronological consistency!)

Above: An oxcart driver looks back to warn us of the “lake” across the road ahead.

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Tobacco farms, curious formations called mogotes and a tranquil, timeless way of life were what I sought in the tiny colonial city of Viñales in Pinar del Rio – another stop along the Polo Montañez trail, being a favorite haunt of the beloved singer. I found all of that – and a lively nightlife, besides. Maybe a little too lively. Polo’s spirit lingers on, it seems.

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Las Terrazas: A forest and its guajiros reclaimed

Las Terrazas: A forest and its guajiros reclaimed

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PINAR DEL RIO, CUBA — It had been two months since I packed away my car keys and began leaving the driving to otros. And as much as I’ve enjoyed traveling with the locals via camión in Mexico and guagua in Havana (regional words for bus), I’ll admit I felt a thrill when Ernesto at CubaCar Rental Service handed me the key to my grey Hyundai and wished me a buen viaje.

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